view from the pont Neuf. Image by kassandra Frua De Angeli — view from the pont Neuf.
Image by kassandra Frua De Angeli

LAST UPDATED 2023:

Wow! When I wrote this blog in 2016 I had no idea that it would strike such a chord. I’m thrilled that it’s helped so many of you to enjoy the Paris marathon. I have updated it with even more local tips, some great advice from readers, and the most up-to-date information I have.

Since 2016, many readers have suggested alternative routes, that I’m not sure mine is really “the best one” any more… but I’m leaving it in as it is a useful starting point. But don’t sleep on the comments! There is gold in them hills.

Enjoy, and keep sharing your experience and advice in the comments!

In 2016 my husband ran the Paris Marathon (his first!) and as a local, I figured it would be easy to dart between various scenic spots and cheer him on without a worry in the world.
I was totally wrong.

It turns out those runners move pretty quick, and using the métro system to get to the key points wasn’t as easy as I’d thought it would be.

I saw him at Pont Neuf (after the 25km point) and again at Pont Mirabeau (30km point) but had to take a cab in between to get there in time. I then took a slow bus and walked to the finish line. I was planning on following his progress with a running app we both use, but it was bugging out on the day so I had to guesstimate his position.

As a result, I was rushed and more than a little stressed out by the end of the day.

If I, as a local, couldn’t figure this out, what hope would the thousands of people who come from out of town have? Luckily, the marathon route stays basically the same practically every year, so being the huge nerd that I am, I have pulled together loads of useful tips, and a route recommendation that you can use to plan your own spectator experience. Behold;

The Ultimate Paris Marathon Spectator Route.

This is just a picture... check out the full map here: https://goo.gl/4loFWL — This is just a picture... click the link above for the full version

It's awesome because:

It includes 5 spectator stops, including the start and finish lines, the 12km mark, 23km mark and the critical 30km point (The Wall)
It uses cheap and fast public transport, all of which is accessible with Zone 1 tickets.
It only involves about 3kms/1.6 miles of walking.

If you have ever watched or run the Paris marathon, I’d love your input and feedback: check in with me in the comments!

Tips and Advice: Getting prepared to watch the Paris Marathon

Know your banana: easily identifiable running outfits are also recommended. IMAGE BY KASSANDRA FRUA DE ANGELI — Know your banana: easily identifiable running outfits are also recommended.
IMAGE BY KASSANDRA FRUA DE ANGELI

The route tends to change a tiny bit each year, but this doesn't affect my recommendations. Check out the official route map here.
Buy ample Zone 1 transport tickets in advance. You can buy individual tickets, or look at the Passe Navigo Easy (like an London Oyster card), using an app on your phone to travel, or the Paris Visite travel card all of which are designed for visitors.
Have a street map, GPS enabled smartphone or a good navigator with you. Google Maps is pretty good, but my preferred app is CityMapper (and it works in dozens of cities around the world).
Be aware that getting on and off the metro can mess up your phone’s GPS and compass. I actually used a real compass for the first year I lived here to help me get around, and it was very useful (see: huge nerd)
Pack plenty of what you’ll need for the day (water, food, snacks, sunscreen, raincoats) as you may have less time to pop into stores than you think. The marathon is always held on a Sunday, so a lot of stores and cafes will be closed.
Have a few 50c and 1€ coins handy. Public restrooms are few and far between, but cafés are generally happy to let you use their facilities, especially if you offer to pay.
Talk to your runner: can they estimate their speed? The more information you have about when and where they expect to be, the better.
Better yet: download the official app so you can track them in real time.
Be ready for transport strikes. During strikes, the RER lines are usually the most affected, and to be avoided. Stick to the metro when you can. And be ready to adapt and change your plan.
If you use Uber in your home country, you can use it here. This can be handy for getting between stops or just getting your tired runner back to the hotel!

Now for some fabulous extra tips from my readers over the years:

“Wear bright coloured hats - we went for bright pink, told our runner where we would be and she saw us easily every time. ” - David
“I think it would have been helpful to have a small set of folding steps, as this would have helped me see across other spectators and locate her more easily.” - Connie
“Print as big a copy of the route as you can (in colour) - they have big ones at the registration event.” - David

Watching the Paris Marathon: Race Day!

POINT 1: Starting Line (0km)
When your runners are off and racing, get on the Line 1 (which is a friendly yellow colour) of the métro at either Franklin Roosevelt or Georges V, which is slightly uphill, and take it to the station Château de Vincennes. The ride is about 25 minutes long.

POINT 2: Château de Vincennes (12km)
Walk approximately 500m south through or around the Château (gorgeous isn’t it?) to the marathon route. This is the 12km point of the run.

When the runners have gone by again, return to the metro, and take it back to station Bastille. The ride is about 15 mins long.

POINT 3: Bastille (23km)
Exit the station and walk approximately 600m south-west along the canal to the marathon route. This is the 23km point of the run.
Bastille is a big station, with a number of exits, but it is difficult to know which will be open or shut on the day. Just pop out where you can, and make your way to the canal. This is where a compass will help a lot.

When your (ever so slightly tired) runners are gone, walk approximately 800m over the Pont d’Austerlitz bridge to the Gare d’Austerlitz.

Walking from Metro to RER, with a little watching in between

The RER (Réseau Express Régional) system is a little different from the metro: the trains are bigger, and go well beyond the city limits. The stations are usually larger, and a little more confusing, so take your time and follow the signs. The RER line C branches into different terminii, so when you get to the correct platform, take care to get only on a train that will take you to Avenue du President Kennedy. These trains will be marked either NORA or GOTA. You also need your ticket to get out, so keep track of it.

Take the RER C train to station Avenue du President Kennedy. This will take about 30 minutes.

POINT 4: Maison de la Radio (31km) “The Wall”
Exit the station, and walk approximately 90m east to the marathon route, just in front of the Maison de la Radio. This is about the 31km point, aka the dreaded “Wall”. Your runners will love seeing you here, so shout and encourage them like crazy!!
When they are gone, return to Avenue du President Kennedy, and take the train (again, NORA or GOTA) 3 stops to station Avenue Foch. This will take about 10 minutes.

POINT 5: Finish line! (42km)
Exit the station, and walk between 60m - 400m north to the marathon route and finish line. There are loads of people here, so it will probably be harder to get right next to the track. Cheer your triumphant runners for the final leg (har har).

It is advisable to set a specific meeting point to rejoin your warriors, as spectators are not allowed into the Finisher’s area. Use the huge Arc de Triomphe as your reference point (aka, “If you are facing the Arch, we will be to the right at the….”)

The closest Metro and RER stations to get back to your hotel or apartment are Porte de Dauphine (Line 2), and Charles de Gaulle- Etoile (Lines 1,2 and 6, and RER A).

The End!

Notes and Variations

Although I've done a lot of research on this, and combined it with years of experience of the city, and input from people who have actually run the marathon, I have not personally attempted this route. But I'm confident it will work!
This is not a leisurely route: you'll want to be moving briskly between stops to make sure you get in position in time.
If you are pressed for time, you could easily skip Point 2 (Château de Vincennes), or Point 3 (Bastille).
If you skip Point 3, take the metro Line 1 from Point 2 directly to the station Gare de Lyon, and walk to Gare d'Austerlitz from there.

What do you guys think? Share your your feedback, advice and experiences about the Paris Marathon in the comments :)

Pssst... Planning on visiting the Château and Estate of Versailles while you're in France? Don't do anything until you've read my Unofficial Guide.